Naples is a tricky subject for any artist. How is one to balance the two competing and contradictory images of the city? “See Naples and die!” was the cultural imperative of the Grand Tour and the age of Romanticism. Chaos, Camorra and trash are the flip image. Naples is a “city painted in sound,” Turturro notes, and, like many poor places in the world, “music is a form of emotional and spiritual transportation . . . a form of prayer.”