The tourists are back, to the delight of Roman restaurateurs and hotel and shop keepers. But investments in the cultural heritage are neglected, even in Rome, and a chronic shortage of funds and personnel means that the museums are not part of the celebration. “You can’t hope for tourism and then shut down the very places that are the real worldwide attractions,” protests Adriano La Regina, president of Italy’s National Institute for Archaeology and Art History. But is tourism really the cure? Not everyone agrees.